Tuesday, January 1, 2019

Argentina & Uruguay – December 2018


Thursday, Dec 13 – Friday, Dec 14

The flight to Buenos Aires was over 10 hours long, but luckily departed on schedule. We were stressed over a possible upcoming strike of Aerolineas Argentinas workers, and didn’t start packing until the last day. We found on Thursday morning that our afternoon flight is still on. In BA we had to switch to terminal C and drag our bags there, and the flight to Mendoza was slightly delayed.

In Mendoza we were met by our tour guide for today, Emily – a delightful French expat. The driver, Fernando was actually our guide on one of our wine tours 2 years ago. We were ready to start our individual tour of Lujan de Cuyo. First, we drove to exclusive Matervini winery, which specializes in boutique wines from different vineyards in the area. The winery was created by Santiago Archaval just a couple of years ago. He had a famous winery called Archaval Ferrer before, which he sold together with his name brand to Stolichnaya Vodka in 2011. We toured a small winery set up in a very modern eco-sustainable solar-panel equipped building where the wine is made in small concrete tanks rather than steel vessels. Concrete tanks help keep temperature stable without any intervention. The wine was very good and priced from $40 to $150 per bottle.

The next stop per my special request was Cruzat which makes only sparkling wine according to traditional Champenoise method. Here we tried a variety of sparkling wines from extra brut to semi sweet. Sparkling wine is made via 2 stage process with second stage done by adding more yeast and sugar into the bottles. Sediments are then collected at the top of the bottles and removed by freezing them with glycol. In the past, winemaker would stick bottles upside down into snow to achieve the same effect. As an alternative method, Prosecco is made by adding yeast and sugar in steel tanks, so no fermentation occurs in bottles.
 
At Cruzat
For lunch we went to Vistalba winery, where we had a very good 4-course meal with small tasting portions paired with wine – octopus, snapper, pork medallions, and dolce de leche ice cream. The winery was set up in a single level building with courtyard reminiscent of an old monastery.
 
At Vistalba
We checked into our hotel Park Hyatt Mendoza around 4 pm. In the room Leon immediately dropped into bed and went to sleep. For dinner we went to Maria Antonietta, the place where I was so impressed by Kabocha squash with humita two years ago and couldn’t wait to go back. We grabbed a good table outside and I repeated my pumpkin dish, while Leon had very tasty charred lamb chops with rice and vegetables.


Saturday, Dec 15

I slept great last night, didn’t even stir once. We had a quick a la carte breakfast in our hotel. Our tour guide Sebastian was over an hour late due to a strange “error in the booking engine“. We drove for 2 hours to the mountain trail called Cajon de Arenales close to the border with Chile. Because of delayed departure, we started the actual hike only around noon. The hike was not very scenic and pretty challenging due to thorny bushes along the trail and massive rock scrambles. Some parts of the trail were very rocky with unstable small and large stones moving under our feet.
 
Hiking Cajon de Arenales
For dinner we took a taxi to the highly recommended Restaurant 1884 located inside a bodega and run by famous chef Francis Mallmann. We sat at a table in the courtyard next to a big outdoor grilling kitchen. We had pulpo (grilled octopus tentacles) and grilled goat cheese appetizers, followed by steaks (filet mignon and ribeye) – all expertly prepared and artfully served. The service was very attentive, and sparkling wine and Malbec from Bodega 1884 were both pretty good. The grilling setup was amazing – big charcoal grill for slow smoking, another charcoal grill, and a fire pit. For dessert we had grilled pineapple with mascarpone ice cream. While waiting for our taxi, we checked out their whiskey collection at the bar and noticed some Japanese products – Suntory Toki, something from Nikka, and a lesser-known brand Kikori made with rice in Kyushu. This whiskey had a light golden color and clean taste with peppery ending. We made a mental note to visit this distillery on our future trip to Japan. We contemplated for a second going to a local dance club called Guanaca, but decided to call it a night to get some rest for tomorrow.
 
At Francis Mallmann's 1884

Steaks at 1884

Sunday, Dec 16

Today is Leon’s birthday and we are going horse back riding. The drive with our tour guide German from Andes Vertical was picturesque, going through mountains, and next to Lake Potrerillos.
Lake Potrerillos

We drove on unpaved road to get to a ranch in the hills, where arriero Daniel lives with his family, 50 horses, dogs, cats, goats and other small farm animals. We asked German why he is referred to as arriero rather than gaucho, but didn’t get a coherent answer. After a larger tour group on a bus arrived, we mounted horses and rode hilly trails for about 2 hours. My horse’s name is Bajo and she is white and very smart. Leon’s horse was brown, somewhat lazy, and she never told him her name. After riding through mountains for a couple of hours and crossing a few streams, we got to a place for lunch – very picturesque setting in a valley next to running stream. Our guides cut up some cheese and sausage, and poured wine to tide us over while the steaks were cooking. Daniel set up a rack for grilling and prepared hot coals. Leon really appreciated chorizo with wine. Four dogs accompanied us all the way from the ranch, one was a cute black puppy. We ate smoky asada steaks and gave scraps to the dogs. On the way back, our horses had to go slowly and carefully down the mountain through big rocks, but once we were on flatter ground they cheered up and started trotting.






For dinner we had reservations at our old favorite Azafran. It was good but not as great as we remembered – service was a bit confused and they discontinued Leon’s favorite quinoa dish. We had a flight of Mendoza wines with beef carpaccio, pork with apples and pineapple and salmon ravioli in green sauce. After dinner, we stopped by casino to try our birthday luck. Leon doubled his money from ARS100 to 200 (about $6) playing slots.

Monday, Dec 17

Today we have scheduled a group tour of Valle de Uco wineries. This was somewhat difficult to plan because apparently we already visited the best wineries of that region 2 years ago. Our first stop was at Corazon del Sol located inside Vines of Mendoza complex, which is still being developed but already anchored by Francis Mallmann’s flagship Siete Fuegos restaurant. The winery itself was disappointing – all modern steel and concrete, no history, and no views of the mountains. It was founded by a cardiologist from Houston who apparently likes to invest in vineyards. The wine was nothing to write home about either.

The next stop was at Casa Petrini – also a relatively new bodega, but with amazing views of the Andes and a few cute little cabins where you could stay. They use steel tanks, as well as regular concrete tanks and egg-shaped concrete tanks. The wine was really good, especially their unoaked Malbec Roca Volcanica (from vineyard section full of volcanic rocks) and Blend de Rio. With unoaked Malbec, you can perceive the flavors of the grape much better. Unfortunately, Casa Petrini does not export to United States, although they are planning to start in about a year.
  
At Casa Petrini
At Casa Petrini

The final stop was at Domaine Bousquet where we had a 6-course lunch with wine pairings at their certified-organic Gaia restaurant. The food was great – goat cheese agnolotti, lamb and mushroom risotto, grilled beef tenderloin, cheese course, and chocolate mousse desert. The desert was actually somewhat disappointing, but the rest of the meal was delicious. The wine pairings were selected perfectly as well. We spent 2 fun hours eating, drinking wine, and talking to people in our group, mostly to a young couple from West Palm Beach and another from New Zealand.
 
At Domaine Bousquet
Getting back to our hotel, we relaxed a bit and ventured out again around 8:00 pm. The goal was to grab a light dinner, but salmon ravioli and mushroom risotto at Maria Antonietta could hardly be considered light.

Tuesday, Dec 18

Our tour guide German, who we went horseback riding with 2 days ago, picked us up at 8 am. We had a 2.5 hour drive to Mount Aconcagua base camp trail called Confluencia. Federico from Andes Vertical somehow forgot to tell us to bring passports (we had them anyway just in case) and AR$750 per person for park entrance fees. So, we had to stop by 2 ATMs and a bank to extract some cash. Apparently, ATMs in Argentina are still low on cash, same as 2 years ago.
 
Entrance to Aconcagua park
The hike started at the elevation of 2,950 meters (9,678 ft). Confluencia base camp was 7 km (5 miles) away at elevation of 3,400 m. So, this was mostly an uphill hike, made harder by the impact of high altitude. After we crossed a hanging bridge, the path became steeper and narrower weaving around the side of the mountain. The weather was great and the scenery absolutely gorgeous. We made a good time to the camp (under 3 hours) and had lunch there. German brought usual white bread sandwiches for us. Little red and yellow birds really appreciated all the bread I fed them. Confluencia camp was pretty large, with huge tents maintained by various tour companies. These tents had bunk beds, and there was even a fully equipped kitchen with grills and a smoker. People tend to spend a couple of days at this camp acclimating to altitude and doing short hikes, before moving on to a higher camp and onward to the ascent of Aconcagua.
 
Hiking to Confluencia
At Confluencia
At Confluencia
Camp at Confluencia
The hike back went much faster, under 2 hours. I tried to make time pass quicker by asking German about his schooling. He used to be a law student turned political staffer turned mountain hiking guide after being disgusted with all the power struggles in politics. Shortly after getting back in the car, we stopped by an amazing sight called Puente Inca – a geological formation resembling a bridge across a narrow mountain gorge and river. The bridge and walls of the gorge had all kinds of colors due to minerals in the water. Apparently, there was a resort there early in the 20th century, but it was destroyed by an avalanche in the 1960s. Only the church survived, still standing there looking quite well preserved.
 
Puente Inca
After that, German drove his little car super fast and we were back in Mendoza before 8 pm. For dinner we went to a place on the side of Plaza Italia called Ceibo. Leon ordered a steak, which was served on top of something suspiciously resembling a big latke, and a glass of Malbec. I had salmon ravioli in red pepper creamy sauce, which was better than pasta in Azafran, and a glass of Torrontes.

Wednesday, Dec 19

We both didn’t sleep well last night and had to roll out of the hotel at ungodly hour of 5 am to catch our flight to BA followed by a flight to Punta del Este. Thankfully, both flights were on time. We had a bit of a confusing switch in BA – had to go down, out and up again to switch to international flights. The passport control line in Punta was very long and then we had to wait for our rental car. We finally reached our Grand Hotel around 3 pm. We got a great room this time – 805 – on the 8th floor, only one level back from the front of the building, with unobstructed views of the ocean. We went for drinks and a snack at the beach bar, and then back to the room to take a nap. For dinner we went to our old favorite seafood Basque restaurant Leonardo Extea. Leon had grilled ancho fish and I had red peppers stuffed with local crab. We ordered a bottle of Torrontes, drank half, and asked the waiter to keep the rest in the cellar for our next visit on Sunday.

Thursday, Dec 20

We woke up to a light drizzle, but the sky cleared up after breakfast. We got in the car and drove north along the coast through La Barra to the town of José Ignacio. On the way, we took a 5 km detour away from the shore to visit an outdoor sculpture park of Pablo Atchugarry. The park was very nice, with gently sloping hills and lakes, and an impressive collection of abstract sculptures.
At Pablo Atchugarry sculpture park
At Pablo Atchugarry sculpture park
Then we got back on the road and soon reached José Ignacio. This used to be a sleepy fishing village which is now full of luxury villas and condos but still has a very laid-back vibe. We parked next to the ocean and walked on the beach towards the lighthouse. Once there, we ascended the spiral staircase and took in the panoramic views of the town and ocean.
Jose Ignacio lighthouse
Then we stopped by a craft market, bought a beautiful abalone shell, and continued walking down the beach until we reached La Huella, considered to be the best restaurant in José Ignacio. The menu didn’t look all that impressive, and we weren’t yet hungry anyway. So, we walked back to the car and drove south a bit to the town of Manantiales, where we had a great lunch of local ceviche and pulpo (grilled octopus tentacle) at a fun place called the Fish Market.
Pulpo at the Fish Market
Talking to our waitress, we realized that we are right next to the famous Bikini Beach, so we went there after lunch. The water felt too cold for swimming, but it was nice to stretch out in the sun. Once on the beach, we recalled coming here two years ago, and remembered how deserted the place was back then. It was not much more crowded now, with just a few people around. After spending a couple of relaxing hours on the beach and discovering free Wi-Fi at the beach bar, we drove back to our hotel. It was too early to go for dinner, so we went for a quick workout at our hotel’s gym, which was surprisingly well equipped. It felt nice to lift some weights after all the hiking we’ve done last few days. And then we drove to town and had great empanadas at a little place called Las Charruitas. The best one had beef and olives, and another really good one had shredded apples. We finished the day with drinks at our hotel’s lobby bar.

Friday, Dec 21

Today the forecast was for rain and thunderstorms in the morning, and Sofia reserved a tour and lunch at Bodega Garzón – a new winery about 1.5 hours drive away. While we were having breakfast in our hotel, it started raining really hard. When I went to retrieve the car from the parking lot across the road, I had to jump over a couple of big puddles, just like in Hoboken after heavy rain.

The drive was long but easy, since the roads here are mostly empty. About 30 minutes after we started driving, the rain slackened and it started clearing up. We drove through beautiful countryside – huge rolling pastures with good-looking cows, sheep, and horses. By the time we got to Bodega Garzón, the sun was out and we could see the grounds in all of their natural splendor – gently sloping hills with well landscaped fields, vineyards and olive trees. Bodega Garzón building is very modern, brand new, built inside a mountain by blowing up parts of it and using stones for construction.
At Bodega Garzon
At Bodega Garzon
At Bodega Garzon
We took a tour of the winery where the best wines are matured in big oak casks and egg-shaped concrete tanks. We tasted three different varieties of the local Tannat wine. For lunch we had two different menus which allowed us to try various dishes – homemade chorizo, perfectly cooked egg with asparagus, fish, amazing steak, dulce de leche cream brûlée. We tried a local white wine called Albariño and really liked it. The restaurant was also grand, with huge windows and open terraces, and picturesque views of the fields. Our tour and lunch together lasted a long time – over 4 hours. After lunch, we took a few more pictures from the terraces, then reluctantly got back in the car and drove home through José Ignacio.
 
Bodega Garzon wine production
Bodega Garzon restaurant wine cellar
Bodega Garzon restaurant kitchen
Bodega Garzon terrace
We changed, went for a quick walk on the beach and returned back for a cocktail reception in the hotel. The drinks were good but snacks very basic. Given how big the lunch was, perhaps that was a good thing.

Saturday, Dec 22

The sky was overcast this morning and again it started drizzling while we were having breakfast. The rain quickly stopped but it was still overcast and windy. We drove first to Playa de los Dedos and then to Playa Mansa on the quieter bay side in search of stand-up paddle boards. There were a few “surf school” shacks setting up, but none had paddle boards. We took a long walk on Playa Mansa and then returned to relax on Playa Brava next to our hotel. The weather improved and it was more sunny now. After a couple of relaxing hours, it was time for lunch. We debated just staying put and having lunch at Grand’s beach bar, but desire to explore won over. So, we got into our car and drove to La Barra, where we had shrimp tacos and chivito at a fun little restaurant called Chill Out. Chivito is a traditional Uruguayan sandwich, and mine was great - made with steak, jamon serrano, mozzarella, lettuce and tomato. Sofia’s shrimp tacos were excellent as well, with fresh homemade tortillas.

After lunch, we hung out in La Barra a bit, had ice cream, and returned to our hotel. A bit later, we drove to Punta Ballena and visited our old favorite Museo Taller Casapueblo – a whimsical white structure resembling a sandcastle. Carlos Paez Vilaro’s art was still fun and fresh, and there were still cats wandering the rooms and hallways, just as we remembered. The highlight was the sunset – very dramatic with the sun first disappearing into patchy low clouds and then re-emerging as the orange ball of fire before finally sinking into the ocean. During the last 10 minutes, a recording of artist reading a poem played. Even though it was in Spanish and we could understand only a few phrases, this Ceremony of the Sun was very romantic.
 
Museo Taller Casapueblo
Casapueblo staff
Casapueblo sunset
After the sunset, we drove back into town of Punta del Este and visited the craft market on Plaza Artigas. It was very lively this evening, with live band playing and singing Christmas songs in Spanish. The singing was surprisingly good for an amateur band, and the whole atmosphere was very festive. Whole families with kids were out enjoying warm pre-Christmas evening. The market itself had basically the same stuff as two years ago – some nice shearling hats and gloves, mate sets, belts, and more arts-and-crafts type items. We walked around the market a bit, and then drove 0.7 miles to Punta Salina restaurant for dinner. Parking is just not an issue here, so it’s easy to drive places. The restaurant was great, with a big parilla grill and welcoming staff. The steaks – both lomo and ojo de bife – were excellent, accompanied by 3/8th of Pisano Tannat.

Sunday, Dec 23
Today we finally woke up to clear blue sky and bright sunshine. After breakfast, we drove up to Playa Bikini in Manantiales and spent a nice lazy morning on the beach. I even went for a swim, even through the water still felt a bit cold. For lunch we went back to the Fish Market a block away and enjoyed pulpo, ceviche, and a salad. It was too hot to be on the beach at 2:00 pm, so we drove back to our hotel and spent about an hour packing. Then we came out and relaxed a bit on Playa Brava in front of our hotel, ordered happy hour caipirinhas, and took a nice long walk on the beach.
Playa Mansa sunset
For dinner we went back to Leonardo Etxea and finished off our bottle of Torrontes with pulpo, jamon iberico, and zarzuela de mariscos. The restaurant actually filled up after 9:00 pm – first time we saw it this full. I suppose Punta really does gets busy during high season.
Pulpo at Leonardo Etxea
After dinner, we decided to drive back to La Barra and Manantiales to check out the supposedly hot party scene. Well, either at 11:00 pm we were still too early or the party season hasn’t kicked off yet, but both the beach bar at Bikini Beach and the new mirrored Tequila club in La Barra were dead empty. Tequila club was still under construction by the looks of it, even though the bar was already fully stocked.
 
Tequila Club in La Barra

Monday, Dec 24

Today is our last day in Uruguay and the weather is excellent again. We spent the morning on the beach in front of our hotel – first going for a walk and then relaxing and going for a swim a couple of times. Perhaps we got used to the water temperature because it no longer felt cold. Then it was time to drive to the airport, turn in our car, and check in for our 1:45 pm flight to Aeroparque in Buenos Aires. The flight was on time and we got our luggage quickly. We used our Aerolineas vouchers to get a free transfer on Tienda Leon bus to their terminal in Puerto Madero, stored our bags, and went for a walk. It’s worth mentioning that Tienda Leon experience was much more civilized this time than 2 years ago. It was the usual hot summer BA afternoon, so we headed to Galerias Pacifico mall to escape the heat and observe last minute Christmas shopping Argentinian style. On the way we passed by Dada Bistro where we had lunch during a similar BA layover 2 years ago. The mall was nice and not very crowded. We browsed around a bit and then decided to head back to Dada for a late lunch of caprese salad, humus, and empanadas. The heat died down a bit once we finished our meal, so we took a stroll to Casa Rosada (presidential palace) which somehow didn’t seem as bright Pepto Bismol pink as we remembered it from 13 years ago.
Casa Rosada
Then we went to San Martin Park with its large old trees, and finally back to Tienda Leon terminal. With it being Christmas Eve, we didn’t want to get stuck and decided to play it safe and take a relatively early 7:10 pm bus to Ezeiza (our flight back home was at 11:30 pm). This turned out to be a good decision, although for a different reason. Once we got to the airport, we first spent an hour in a check-in line, and then another hour or more in a passport control line. By the time we were done, there was less than an hour left until boarding – just enough time for a glass of wine and a snack. And then it was time to say “adios Argentina”.